White flakes on floor - causes and removal

White Flakes at the Bottom of Your Pool: Causes and Solutions

You've just vacuumed your pool, the water looks crystal clear, and then you notice them – white flakes settling on the bottom like snow. They accumulate in corners, along steps, and in low-flow areas. Brush them and they cloud the water temporarily before resettling. What are these mysterious white particles, where do they come from, and how do you eliminate them for good? Understanding the different causes of white flakes helps you choose the right treatment approach, from quick fixes to permanent solutions that address the root problem.

Common Causes of White Flakes

Calcium Scale Precipitation

This is the most common culprit, particularly in Australian pools using bore water or hard scheme water. When calcium hardness is too high (above 400-500 ppm) and pH or alkalinity climb, calcium precipitates out of solution as calcium carbonate – appearing as white, chalky flakes that settle to the pool floor. High water temperatures from heat pumps or natural summer heating accelerate this precipitation.

Calcium flakes feel slightly gritty when rubbed between fingers and don't dissolve in water. They're essentially limestone forming in your pool. Western Australian pool owners using bore water know this problem intimately – bore water often contains 300-500+ ppm calcium hardness straight from the tap, making calcium precipitation almost inevitable without careful management.

Dead Algae Residue

After shocking your pool to kill an algae bloom, dead algae cells clump together and appear as white or off-white flakes settling to the bottom. This is particularly common after treating white or yellow algae varieties. The dead organic matter has been oxidized by chlorine, losing its color, leaving whitish debris that filters gradually remove – but not before accumulating visibly on pool surfaces.

Filter Media Breakdown

Deteriorating sand or glass filter media can shed fine particles that circulate through your pool and settle as white flakes. Old sand that's been in your filter for 7+ years becomes rounded and starts breaking down, releasing silica dust. Similarly, degraded DE (diatomaceous earth) powder from cartridge or DE filters can escape through damaged grids or cartridges, appearing as white powder settling throughout the pool.

Plaster or Surface Degradation

Concrete or pebblecrete pools with aging surfaces sometimes shed plaster particles, particularly if water chemistry has been chronically imbalanced (low pH causing etching, or high pH causing scaling). These appear as white flakes that are actually pieces of your pool surface coming loose – a more serious problem requiring eventual resurfacing.

Sunscreen and Lotions

In Australia where sunscreen use is essential, pool water becomes laden with sunscreen residues, particularly water-resistant formulas. When combined with sanitizer and certain chemical conditions, these organic compounds can coagulate into white, waxy flakes that settle to the bottom. This is especially noticeable after pool parties or weekends with heavy swimming activity.

Biofilm Fragments

Established biofilm in pipes, filters, or on surfaces can break loose during shocking or cleaning, appearing as white or off-white gelatinous flakes. This bacterial slime layer, when disturbed, fragments and circulates before settling. It often accompanies musty pool smells and indicates inadequate sanitization or old filter media harboring bacteria.

Identifying Your Specific Problem

The Vinegar Test for Calcium

Collect some white flakes in a small container. Add a few drops of white vinegar (acetic acid). If the flakes fizz and dissolve, you have calcium carbonate. This confirms calcium precipitation is your problem. If they don't react, you're dealing with organic matter, filter media, or surface degradation.

The Texture Test

Rub flakes between your fingers. Calcium feels gritty and chalky. Dead algae feels soft and powdery. Filter media (sand or DE) feels slightly abrasive. Plaster feels hard and granular. Sunscreen residue feels waxy or oily. This simple tactile test narrows down the source quickly.

Water Chemistry Analysis

Test your water comprehensively. Calcium hardness above 400 ppm combined with pH above 7.6 strongly suggests calcium precipitation. Recent shocking or algae treatment points to dead algae residue. Low pH (below 7.0) over extended periods suggests potential surface etching and plaster degradation.

Short-Term Removal Solutions

Vacuum to Waste

For immediate removal, vacuum white flakes directly to waste (bypassing your filter). This prevents clogging your filter with large amounts of debris and gets flakes out of your pool completely rather than just cycling through filtration. You'll lose water and need to top up, but it's the fastest way to clear heavy accumulations.

Set your multiport valve to "waste," connect your vacuum, and slowly vacuum the bottom. Go slowly – rushing stirs flakes into the water column where they won't vacuum effectively. After vacuuming to waste, refill your pool and rebalance chemistry.

Brush and Filter

For lighter accumulations, thoroughly brush all surfaces to suspend flakes in the water, then run your filter continuously for 24-48 hours. Backwash or clean your filter multiple times during this period as pressure builds – flakes will gradually filter out. This method takes longer but doesn't waste water.

Use a Clarifier

Pool clarifiers coagulate fine particles into larger clumps your filter can capture more easily. After brushing to suspend white flakes, add clarifier according to product directions and run your filter continuously. Within 24-48 hours, flakes should clear as they're captured by your filter. This works well for algae residue and fine calcium particles but less effectively for larger calcium chunks.

Flocculent Treatment

For severe white flake problems, flocculent (alum-based settling agent) can be effective but comes with caveats. Flocculents cause suspended particles to clump and settle to the bottom in heavy concentrations, which you then vacuum to waste. This works quickly but adds significant sulfates to your water (problematic in WA) and requires completely clear water to start. Follow instructions precisely – improper use makes problems worse.

Long-Term Solutions: Addressing Root Causes

Calcium Management for Hard Water

If calcium precipitation is your problem, you need to manage water hardness long-term:

Partial Draining: The only way to reduce calcium hardness is physically removing water and replacing it with lower-calcium water. Calculate required drainage: If you're at 600 ppm and want 300 ppm, you need to drain 50% of your pool and refill. This is expensive and time-consuming but sometimes necessary.

pH and Alkalinity Control: Keep pH at 7.2-7.4 and total alkalinity at 80-100 ppm. Lower ranges reduce calcium's tendency to precipitate even when hardness is elevated. Use hydrochloric acid (not sulfuric acid) for pH reduction to avoid adding sulfates.

Water Source Management: If using bore water, consider mixing with scheme water 50/50 for top-ups to dilute calcium input. Test your bore water source – knowing baseline calcium levels helps predict when drainage will be necessary.

Sequestering Agents: Products containing phosphonic acid or HEDP can keep calcium in solution, preventing precipitation. Add monthly as maintenance. They don't reduce calcium levels but minimize scaling and flaking. Particularly useful for WA pools dealing with high-calcium bore water.

Filter Maintenance and Replacement

If filter media breakdown is causing white flakes:

Replace Filter Media: Sand should be replaced every 5-7 years, glass every 7-10 years. Old media breaks down and becomes ineffective. If your sand is 7+ years old and you're seeing white flakes, replacement is likely overdue. This costs $60-150 for sand or $120-250 for glass but solves the problem permanently.

Inspect DE Grids: For DE filters, remove and inspect grids for tears, holes, or deterioration. Replace damaged grids to prevent DE powder escaping into your pool. A full grid replacement runs $200-500 depending on filter size but is essential for proper filtration.

Clean Cartridge Filters: Cartridge filters should be deep-cleaned monthly and replaced every 2-3 years. Deteriorating cartridge material can shed fibers appearing as white particles. Replace worn cartridges – they're $80-200 each but critical for filtration quality.

Surface Protection and Repair

If plaster degradation is causing flakes, you need professional assessment. Minor etching can sometimes be mitigated by maintaining proper pH (7.4-7.6) and calcium hardness (200-400 ppm) to prevent further deterioration. Severe damage requires professional resurfacing – expensive ($5,000-15,000 depending on pool size) but eventually necessary for aging concrete pools.

Biofilm Elimination

If biofilm is the source:

Filter Cleaning: Use filter-specific cleaners to remove biofilm from sand, cartridge, or DE filters. These enzymatic or chemical cleaners dissolve organic buildup that harbors bacteria. Follow with thorough backwashing or rinsing.

System Shock: Super-chlorinate your pool to 20+ ppm and maintain this level for 24-48 hours to kill biofilm throughout your system. Run your filter continuously during treatment.

Pipe Treatment: For established biofilm in plumbing, consider professional pipe cleaning or circulation of concentrated chlorine through isolated sections of plumbing.

Organic Load Management

For sunscreen and organic residue causing white flakes:

Enzyme Treatments: Regular use of enzyme-based pool treatments breaks down oils, lotions, and organic compounds before they accumulate and coagulate. Add weekly during summer or after heavy pool use.

Pre-Swim Showers: Encourage swimmers to rinse off before entering, removing most sunscreen and body products. This simple habit dramatically reduces organic loading.

Oxidation Shock: Weekly shocking with non-chlorine oxidizer breaks down accumulated organic compounds that contribute to flake formation.

Prevention Strategies

Preventing white flakes is easier than treating them:

  • Test calcium hardness monthly, managing levels between 200-400 ppm
  • Maintain pH at 7.2-7.4 to minimize calcium precipitation
  • Replace filter media on schedule before breakdown occurs
  • Use sequestering agents monthly in hard-water areas
  • Add enzymes weekly to break down organic compounds
  • Shock weekly during peak usage to prevent biofilm establishment
  • Encourage pre-swim showers to reduce organic loading
  • Test and balance water weekly, catching problems early
  • Use pool covers when not in use to reduce debris and evaporation
  • For bore water users, test source water and plan for periodic partial drainage

Australian-Specific Challenges

Bore Water Complications

Western Australian pool owners face particular challenges. Bore water's high calcium content means calcium flaking isn't a question of "if" but "when." Regular partial draining (25-33% annually) becomes necessary maintenance rather than emergency correction. Mixing bore and scheme water for top-ups helps but doesn't eliminate the eventual need for full or partial drainage.

Heat-Related Precipitation

Australian summer heat naturally warms pools to 28-32°C, and heated pools run warmer year-round. Warm water holds less calcium in solution, accelerating precipitation. This is why calcium flaking problems intensify during January-February even when chemistry hasn't changed – the heat itself triggers precipitation.

High Sunscreen Usage

Australia's intense UV means heavy sunscreen use is non-negotiable. Pool water becomes loaded with these compounds, particularly during weekends and holidays. Regular enzyme treatments aren't optional luxuries – they're necessary maintenance in our conditions.

Fun Fact: A single millimeter of calcium scale deposited across an average pool surface represents approximately 25-30 kilograms of calcium carbonate! Those seemingly innocent white flakes settling on your pool floor can accumulate to represent hundreds of grams of calcium precipitating from your water weekly in hard-water conditions. Over a season without treatment, you could have several kilograms of calcium scale distributed across your pool – enough to fill a large bucket. That's calcium that was dissolved in your water, maintaining hardness, now precipitated onto surfaces where it doesn't belong. And every time you vacuum those flakes to waste, you're physically removing calcium from your pool – nature's way of reducing your hardness levels, albeit messily and inconveniently!

The Bottom Line

White flakes aren't a single problem with a single solution – they're a symptom of various underlying issues. Calcium precipitation (common in hard-water areas), dead algae residue (after treatment), deteriorating filter media (from age), surface degradation (from imbalanced chemistry), or organic compounds (from heavy pool use) can all manifest as white flakes settling on your pool floor.

Short-term removal involves vacuuming to waste for immediate clearing, brushing and filtering for gradual removal, or using clarifiers and flocculents for stubborn cases. But these are temporary fixes – without addressing root causes, flakes return quickly.

Long-term solutions require identifying and treating the specific cause: managing calcium through partial draining and chemistry control, replacing old filter media before breakdown, eliminating biofilm through shocking and filter cleaning, or managing organic loading through enzymes and pre-swim protocols.

For Australian pool owners, particularly in Western Australia with hard bore water, white flakes from calcium precipitation are almost inevitable. Accept partial draining as routine maintenance every 2-3 years, maintain pH on the lower end of acceptable range, use sequestering agents monthly, and test calcium hardness regularly. Prevention through proactive chemistry management costs far less than reactive treatment after problems develop.

Those white flakes are your pool's way of communicating chemistry imbalances or maintenance needs. Listen to what they're telling you, identify the specific cause through simple tests, and implement both immediate removal and long-term prevention strategies. Your pool will reward you with clear water and surfaces free from that annoying white snow accumulation.